Odds, ends, and End Tables

It has been a busy and emotionally overwhelming few weeks for me, so there hasn’t been too much woodworking going on in my shop.  I have been out of town for work more than I have been home since the beginning of the year.  Thankfully, busy season for my work is almost over and my schedule should settle down somewhat.  On top of being out of town, one of our two pugs , Piglet was diagnosed with cancer at the end of January.  Since my wife and I don’t have children, the pugs are our kids.   Last Saturday morning, we lost our baby and have been trying to deal with the loss.

Our goofy little princess, Piglet.

On the weekends that I have been home, I have tried to putter around a little in the shop.  I was able to get a backsaw restored, sharpened, and ready to go to work.  I also have started to get back to the Arts and Crafts End Table project I started a year ago and put on hold for a basement remodel (that still hasn’t happened yet).

The first step that I took was to create a storey stick for the project.  A storey stick, for those of you who don’t know, is simply a stick with the locations of the major elements of a project marked on it.  The stick is then used to transfer any dimensions, spacing, etc. to the actual work piece without the use of a ruler.  This helps to make the dimensions more accurate because it eliminates measuring errors from the process.  Layout lines can be transferred by either using dividers between elements on the storey stick or by directly marking the work piece from the storey stick.

For my storey sticks, I use a square stick that is about 3/4″ – 1″ on each side.  All the layout lines for a particular dimension (the height, width, and depth) are made on a single side of the stick.  So, my stick has one side that is for the height of the tables, one for the width, and one for the depth.  I could, and may, add layout for the workings of the drawers on the fourth side or on another stick.

After I made the storey stick, I glued up the panel for the top of one of the tables.  One of my boards was bowed, so I had to do some extra planing to get the top flat.  Here is a photo of the first two boards I picked to make the top.

Our goofy little princess

In the next two photos, you can see the unevenness caused by the bowed board.

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Here are photos of the top after the initial flattening.  There is a little tear out that I will have to try to plane or scrape away.  The first photo also includes the storey stick I am using.

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And finally, here is a photo of the top showing the grain pattern of the wood.  I think it will turn out really nice.IMAGE_779  

I hope to make some more progress on the tables during the next few weeks, and I will update the blog as I do; I just don’t know how much shop time I will have.

Until then. . .

Planemaker’s Floats Part 5

Its been an extremely busy few weeks and I haven’t had much time for woodworking, much less for blogging.  I was able to finish the planemaker’s floats I have been working on.

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Hardening a float.

 

A week ago, I was able to get the floats hardened.  My in-laws had a nice hot fire going in their wood stove; just waiting for the float blades.  I did end up with a little warping of the steel.  It wasn’t too bad though, and I don’t think it will affect the tools in use.

The next day, was able to temper the blades in a toaster oven.  2014-02-08 16.16.51 - Copy

After the tempering was finished, I sharpened the floats.  Finally, after a coat or two of boiled linseed oil on the handles, the floats are all finished.

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Finished Planemaker’s Floats

 

This weekend, I have started working on restoring three vintage handsaws, which I plan on selling.  More about these saws in a future post.

Until next time. . .

Planemaker’s Floats Part 4

Pull Cheek Float

Pull Cheek Float

Last week I made quite a bit of progress on the planemaker’s floats I’ve been working on.  I finished the metal work on the two cheek floats (see the previous posts in this series for the process).  Over the weekend, I also made handles for three of the four floats.

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Unfortunately, I miss-marked the holes for the screws in one of the handles, so I’ll have to remake it.

Oops

Oops

The process I’m using to make the handlers is really simple.  First, I cut out a rectangular blank for the handle and layout the mortise for the float blade and then saw out the walls.  Next, I use a knife to open the mortise up a little.  Once the mortise is open enough, I use the new side float I made to fine the the fit of the blade in the handle.  Then, I mark the holes for the sawnuts and drill them.

Once I have the l last two handles made, I’ll put a couple of costs of boiled linseed oil on them and then they’ll be ready for the final installation.

This week I plan to heat-treat the blades.  The only positive aspect of the extreme cold this winter is that my father-in-law should have a nice hot fire in his wood burning stove this weekend.  It only takes about 20 minutes or so to get the steel to the critical temperature for hardening.

More on the heat-treating process next time.  Until then. . .

Planemaker’s Floats – Part 2

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Well, I was able to make a lot of progress on one of the planemaker’s floats I’m working on.  This particular float is used to cleaning up the the mortises in moulding planes (the hole in the center of the plane where the iron and the wedge go.  This type of float is called an edge float.  Above is a photo of the float after I sawed out the basic shape using a hacksaw.  If you are thinking about trying to make your own floats, I would HIGHLY recommend you use a fairly coarse hacksaw blade.  The one I had was a 32 tooth per inch (TPI) blade I had used a little too long.  I have one tooth that is broken and the rest of the teeth are getting dull.  This leads to a very irritating screeching noise when using the saw.  Needless to say, my wife and our two pugs weren’t too happy when I was working on the floats in the evening with them sitting 5 feet away.

After sawing out the blank, I used a mill file to smooth out the rough edge that was left by the saw and to dial in the angle I wanted for the float (10º).2014-01-11 19.17.51

With the edge smoothed and the angle of the float where I wanted it, I applied some red layout fluid to the edge and used a scribe to mark out the position of the teeth.  I decided on 8 TPI, which seems to be fairly standard for floats.  After the location of the points of the teeth were laid out, I used my (dull) hacksaw to start grooves for the file that I used to shape the teeth.

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Then I moved the float to my saw vice (I picked it up a week ago at an antique store in Springfield, OH.  More about that later.).  I then used a 6″ slim taper saw file to start shaping the teeth of the float.  When you are cutting teeth in a float, or a saw for that matter, you want to leave just the slightest bit of a flat on the tops of the teeth on your first pass.  The next step is to use a mill file to “joint” the teeth, which simple means that you are getting all the teeth the same height.  At this point, I like to add a little more layout fluid to the teeth before I hit them one more time with the triangular saw file.  The layout fluid helps you to see how much of the flat is left on the top of the teeth; when the color is gone, you know to stop filing that tooth.

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At this point, the float is quite sharp.  Next I marked the locations for two  saw nuts that I will use to secure the float in its handle.

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Finally, I removed the layout fluid from the float.  The next step will be heat treatment and then making the handle for the float.

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Before I start heat treating, I have three more floats to make.  I will be making 1 side float, which has a 10º taper with the point in the center of the float, with teeth cut into one of the wide sides.  Side floats are used to clean up the triangular sides of a wedge mortise.  I am also making 2 check floats, which are much smaller and used for general cleanup and removing excess wood while fitting the wedge.  One of these floats will cut on the push stroke, and the other on the pull stroke.

I got some new hacksaw blades and a new hacksaw frame today, so hopefully I will be able to get the rest of the floats cut out and the profiles smoothed by this weekend.  I may even be able to file the teeth into them.

I don’t get too much feed back from those of you that read the blog.  If you would like more information about any part of this process, please feel free to leave a comment below or send me a message.

More next time. . .

Planemaker’s Floats – Part 1

Plane Makers Floats

Plane Makers Floats

The next project that I am starting to work on is making a set of planemaker’s floats.  I hope to eventually hope to make a full set of moulding planes.   The photo above shows a set of planemaker’s floats from Lie-Nielson Toolworks.  A float is essentially a cross between a coarse file and a saw.  They are used to fine-tune the wedge mortise and mouth of moulding planes.

For those of you who are not familiar with moulding planes, they are wooden planes used to make mouldings like ovolos, ogees, beads, astrigals, etc. for the tops, middles, and bases of furniture.  The most versatile moulding planes are called hollows and rounds.  These planes cut various sizes of convex and concave moulding elements.  Hollow planes are used to cut convex profiles, round planes cut the concave elements.  When different sizes of hollows and rounds are used together fairly complex mouldings can be produced.

There are a few good resources available on making hollow and round planes, and a number of woodworking bloggers have written about making planes themselves.  The source I’m using is a DVD from Lie-Nielson Toolworks called “Making Traditional Side Escapement Planes” with Larry Williams.

So far on the project of making floats, I have only done layout work on the tool steel I’ll be making the floats from.  The floats I’m making first are 1/8″ thick.  I ordered the O1 steel bar stock from McMaster Carr.  I chose to use 1 1/4″ wide stock even though I only need 1″ of thickness since I don’t have much experience working with steel.  The steel I am using is McMaster Carr item number 9516k48.  The layout process involves coating the steel with layout fluid, which adds a colored surface that can be scratched off with an awl for marking the lines to which you are going to cut.

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The next step is to use an awl along with a square, ruler, and dividers to draw shape of the floats on the bar stock.

The next step will be to use a hacksaw to cut out the blanks for the floats.  I will cover this in a future post.

Until then. . .

Happy New Year – New Saw Tote Part 4

happy-new-yearHappy New Year everybody!

Gramercy Tools Saw Handle Makers Rasp

Gramercy Tools Saw Handle Maker’s Rasp

The next step in making the new saw tote is to break out the rasps.  I did most of the shaping work with my Gramercy Tools Saw Handle Maker’s Rasp.  I picked up this rasp at Woodworking In America back in October.  Most of the shaping that has to be done is on the grip, although most of the edges get rounded over as well.

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Next comes the real test . . . how the tote feels in the hand.  For my hands, this tote pattern – from Aldren Watson’s book Hand Tools: Their Ways and Workings – is nearly perfect.

2013-12-29 16.51.46Once the grip is comfortable, it’s time to start sanding.  I used 220 grit sandpaper to remove the final rasp marks and get a nice silky smooth finish.

2013-12-30 21.57.53Once all the sanding is done, I applied a couple of coats of boiled linseed oil and finished it off with a little furniture wax.  Here is a photo of the finished tote installed on saw.

2014-01-01 17.39.34And here is a photo of the new tote next to the old one for comparison.

2014-01-01 18.19.15Until next time . . .